Thursday, June 18, 2009

Surfwise (2007)

This is a photo of surfing legend Dorian Paskowitz and eight of his nine children, whom he "home-schooled" with his wife, Juliette. They became famous as the "first family of surfing" and spent years traveling up and down the coast, renouncing material possessions (besides some surfboards and used camper vans) and living on barely any income at all. For a couple of decades they seemed to be more or less genuinely happy, and while watching the first half or so of the documentary it's fun to imagine what growing up in such a family would have been like. The obligatory bummer portion of the documentary reveals that most of the kids weren't very happy with their father upon discovering, as young adults, that getting out of the water and enrolling at Stanford was not an option.

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